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Pie and mash is old London on a plate: a minced-beef pie, a scoop of mashed potato and a ladle of the green parsley sauce known as liquor, traditionally served with stewed or jellied eels. Once found on every working-class high street, the surviving shops are living history. This guide covers where to try the real thing.
The historic pie and mash shops
M.Manze on Tower Bridge Road, open since 1902, is the oldest surviving pie and mash shop in London and a beautifully tiled time capsule. G.Kelly on Roman Road in the East End is another beloved institution, and F.Cooke near Broadway Market keeps the tradition alive in Hackney. South of the river, Goddards in Greenwich has been serving pie and mash to generations of Londoners since the nineteenth century.
What to expect
These are no-frills, tiled rooms where the menu has barely changed in a century. Order a pie with mash and liquor, and be brave enough to try the eels, stewed or jellied, if you want the full experience. Prices are low, portions are hearty, and the atmosphere is pure, unpolished London. Many close by mid-afternoon, so go for an early lunch.
What is liquor in pie and mash?
Liquor is the traditional green sauce served with pie and mash, made from parsley and, historically, the water used to prepare stewed eels. Despite the name it contains no alcohol. It is poured generously over the pie and mash and is central to the dish.
Where is the oldest pie and mash shop in London?
M.Manze on Tower Bridge Road, trading since 1902, is the oldest pie and mash shop still operating in London. Its original tiling and marble-topped benches make it as much a piece of heritage as a place to eat.
Where to go next
For more traditional London eating, see the best Sunday roast in London and the best pubs in London.
