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London's bagel, or beigel as the East End spells it, is a chewy, boiled-then-baked classic with deep roots in the city's Jewish community. This guide covers where to find the best, from the legendary all-night shops of Brick Lane to the delis of north London.
The Brick Lane beigel shops
At the top of Brick Lane, two shops have served beigels around the clock for decades. Beigel Bake, the white-fronted one, is a genuine London institution, famous for its enormous, bargain salt beef beigel with mustard, served through the small hours to clubbers, cabbies and market traders alike. Its blue-fronted neighbour, the Beigel Shop, is the older of the two and has its own loyal following. Trying a hot salt beef beigel here is a rite of passage.
Delis and beyond
Beyond Brick Lane, north London's delis carry the tradition, with Panzer's in St John's Wood a long-standing favourite for smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels. A new generation of bakeries and cafes has added its own twist, but for the classic experience, the 24-hour shops of the East End remain unbeatable and gloriously cheap.
What is the difference between a beigel and a bagel?
They are the same thing: beigel is the traditional Yiddish spelling used by the historic East End shops, while bagel is the more common modern spelling. The Brick Lane shops proudly keep the old spelling, and their salt beef version is the London classic.
Are the Brick Lane bagel shops open all night?
Yes. The famous Brick Lane beigel shops are open around the clock, which is a large part of their legend, drawing a crowd of night owls for a hot salt beef beigel in the early hours. It is one of the few genuinely 24-hour food experiences in London.
Where to go next
For a fuller morning spread, see the best breakfast in London, or browse the best restaurants in London.
